The reviewer from the Times says a visit to the White Street restaurant is “worth it.” (Photo by Peter Lindner; click to enlarge)

Dish, a restaurant on White Street in Red Bank, scored a positive review in the Metropolitan section of the New York Times Sunday.

Food critic Karla Cook, however, had some issues with the ventilation system and a door chime.

After complaining about the doorbell and HVAC system that exposes some tables to “the aromas of every order hitting the heat,” Cook writes that the six-year-old BYO, owned by Judy Matthew and executive chef Anthony Ferrando, is “a happy find,” featuring a “small and tidy” menu of American dishes with Mediterranean influences.

Among the “standouts:”

crab cakes that looked mass-produced but were full of sweet lump crab and served with a frisky roasted red pepper rémoulade; Prince Edward Island mussels in a glorious sauce of white wine, Pernod, tomato and pancetta (showing that nearly everything is better with some version of bacon); and bacon-wrapped shrimp over cheese grits, the shrimp suffering only slightly from spending too much time in the grease.

The salads, Cook writes, were “unremarkable,” but she found the main dishes “consistently good” and pronounced the desserts “a delight:”

The three best were a berry crumble with a superbly crunchy oatmeal-three-sugar topping spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg; a Meyer lemon tart featuring a fresh and flaky shell; and an oversize slab of thickly frosted, moist chocolate cake that Mr. Ferrando calls his version of one that grandma might make.